WTF?
In 1999, after a couple of years fiddling with that blogging thing on various other people's domains, I thought I had enough things to say to merit my very own corner of this here interweb. In 2007, I suddenly ran out of ammo. Thankfully, that didn't last forever... So, I'm back. Still not dead yet. Like a phoenix from the ashes. Behold.
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March 2, 2003
:: Nobody Home ::
I am torn. Bali is a magical place. Physical beauty aside, there is a sense in the air that magic is possible, that your hopes, no matter how absurd, are not unfounded. There's just one problem: it's deserted.
I'm in Kuta, the tourist destination on this tiny island. I hadn't planned to come here, but it's the closest town to the airport and it was so damned late by the time I got in that I figured what the hell. I thought, a night or two of civilization will be just fine as I acclimate to a new country.
There are surf stores the size of a Gap superstore here. About 20 of them. There are, by my count, 3 McDonald's, a Wendy's and 3 KFCs. Also a Pizza Hut, and I'm certain I've missed as many as I counted. There are more bars and restaurants than you can shake a small forest at. There's even a Hard Rock Cafe, Hotel and Superstore. There's an Armani A/X store, a Versace boutique and I can't even count the number of places with D&G and Stussy on their signs. It's everything I heard it was - tourist hell. There's only one problem: no tourists.
I heard the warnings, I read them. US CITIZENS ARE ADVISED NOT TO VISIT INDONESIA DUE TO POLITICAL INSTABLITY AND TERRORIST ACTIVITY. Everybody did. I assumed that those who knew this island would ignore them. But having gone out tonight in search of a chat over happy hour, and having combed the entire town in that search, I realize I was mistaken. It's 11:45 now and I'm back at my hotel, planning to head up to Ubud tomorrow, hoping against hope that the dearth of visitors will be less obvious and less heartbreaking there than it is here.
New York got bombed by terrorists. Nobody issued a no-tourist warning. People, in fact, came from all over to see the place where it happened. I walked past what used to be Paddy's and Sari Club and Maccaroni today - which even now amounts to a few empty lots with some rubble scattered about - and there were wreaths and banners from well-wishers and mourners, but that's it. It's not that people are oblivious - it's just that the only people I saw walking by that corner (one of the biggest corners in town) live here. The pain is part of their lives now.
At every t-shirt stand, there are shirts that weren't there last year. "Bali Cry" they say, or "Bali Black Day" or "FUCK TERRORIST" or (my favorite), "Osama Don't Surf". I wish I could afford to buy something from everyone. They need it.
The thing that's hardest about all of it is the people. Their smiles beat the living hell out of any I've ever seen, and they're the only people in Southeast Asia I've seen so far who will let you go without buying someting, without being angry about it. The terrorists who did this, who are themselves Indonesian, did an incalculable amount of damage to their own people. I do not mean to trivialize the deaths of the Australian, European and American victims of the bombing, but the aftermath, I fear, will last much longer and will affect most those who have the least recourse.
And yet, a voice tells me, take heart. There is beauty here to behold, and joy to live in!
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It is indeed a sad thing that the people most hurt by the bombing was Bali itself, with people trying to get by, and admirably not preying on the tourists. After Vietnam and Bangkok that must be just a breath of fresh air. I'm sorry to hear they're tourism is taking such a hit, but it's good to see the people aren't being horrid about it. Time for a pro-Bali campaign! Screw the state department. They don't want you going to half the places in the world. They want you to stay at home and study ready.gov all day and buy duct tape. WTF?
I know I'm getting out of here as soon as I can..
It is indeed a sad thing that the people most hurt by the bombing was Bali itself, with people trying to get by, and admirably not preying on the tourists. After Vietnam and Bangkok that must be just a breath of fresh air. I'm sorry to hear their tourism is taking such a hit, but it's good to see the people aren't being horrid about it. Time for a pro-Bali campaign! Screw the state department. They don't want you going to half the places in the world. They want you to stay at home and study ready.gov all day and buy duct tape. WTF?
I know I'm getting out of here as soon as I can..
My dorm room, albeit a contemporary Hooverville to some, is actually a tropical paradise.
I'll be going back to Bali.. they are some of the best people on earth..and now a great time to get some uncrowded waves.. Low tide Uluwatu all to myself... stoked.